Le Théâtre de la Mode et de la Nature

The Theatre of Fashion and Nature is based on the tradition of creating miniature fashion dolls to show off new designs or fabrics.

 

 It was during the autumn of 1944, after the Liberation of Paris, that the project of the Théâtre de la Mode (Theatre of Fashion) was born. It was created to raise funds for war relief and to help revive the French fashion industry.

Couturiers, jewellers, milliners and hairdressers took on an original challenge: to present the haute couture collections of Spring 1945 on miniature figurines in theatre décors signed by famous artists while dealing with extreme shortages of cloth, thread and other sewing supplies (Théâtre de la Mode by Edmonde Charles-Roux, Rizzoli International Publications in cooperation with the Metropolitan Museum of Art).

Miniature fashion dolls, which were 27.5 inches tall, were fabricated of wire, with plaster heads.

The Théâtre de la Mode derived from a well-established custom, dating from the Middle Ages, when travelling dolls were sent across Europe to share new fashion trends and to show the tactile qualities of fashion, which could not be made palpable in paintings or described adequately to tailors.

So it was that more than sixty Parisian couturiers created miniature clothes in new styles for a touring exhibition of 237 doll-size figurines in fifteen elaborate sets.

This exquisitely crafted exhibition, inaugurated at the Louvre in Paris in March 1945, was the point of departure for a successful journey, first to other capitals in Europe and then, in 1946, to the United States, where it is now on display at the Maryhill Museum of Art.

According to the United Nations, the fashion industry is the second largest polluter in the world, just after the fossil fuel industry. When BOTANY and other stories decided to expose the dire impact it has on Nature, the images of these fashion dolls triggered the idea of a different miniature exhibition. The clothes would be made only with natural materials (see the images below). As for the models, a series of identical wooden artist mannequins would do the job.

Maizie Hardy, a young professional costume designer living in Hay-on-Wye, was commissioned by BOTANY and other stories to design an outfit illustrative of one of the various themes of the exhibition for each of these models. Read our interview with Maizie Hardy…

All of these models are displayed in various parts of the Cabinet of Curiosities, often accompanied by one of the travelling botanical boxes made by artists, artisans and scientists. Thus creating a Théâtre de la Mode et de la Nature (Theatre of Fashion and Nature).

 

Les Mannequins

  • Lady of the Meadows

    The Georgian era style dress is made from selvage black denim, with a silk underskirt and is covered with Layla Robinson’s dried flowers.

  • Fur

    The long 1970s coat is made from reused rabbit fur, the dagger collar shirt is cotton and the flares denim.

  • The Swimmer

    The swimmer’s costume is knitted from wool yarn reflecting the colours of Indian balsam. The towel is painted denim and the swimmer’s cap adorned with Layla Robinson’s dried flowers.

  • The Spider

    The dress is made from a loose weave cotton muslin, woven raffia, denim, and dry felted wool for the spider’s tunnels. The Spider is made using oxidised wire, hand-loomed cotton khadi and mother of pearl buttons.

  • The Gardener

    The trousers are made from hessian with denim knee patches. The Victorian era style smock is made from linen and indigo dyed cotton thread. Dried ferns are hand sewn to the back.

  • The Welsh Miner

    The Welsh miner’s clothes are made from denim stained with a soot, ash and charcoal glue mix. The helmet is paper mâché, leather and tin.

  • The Welsh Woman

    Pieces of traditional Welsh blankets and denim were used in creating the skirt, apron and shawl. Hand-loomed cotton for the blouse and silk, velvet and hand-painted antique lace for the hat.

  • Wool

    The wool yarn used for the jumper is naturally dyed with tansy and safflower. The neckerchief is made from denim and embroidered with cotton thread detailing and the trousers are also wool.

  • The Queen of the Night

    Silk velvet with individually hand attached flecks of silver leaf and ruched tulle were used for the dress. The silk veil is adorned with fireflies made from painted denim thread, silk fly fringes and gold leaf.

  • The Reader

    Leather book binding offcuts and denim were woven to create the tunic. The shirt is made from tea stained hemp along with the cloak which is dyed with brazilwood. The hat, shoes and book pockets are made from leather.

  • The Tattooed Twins

    Tattoos are hand-inked onto the wooden mannequins.

  • EVERYTHING EVERYWHERE ALL AT ONCE

    A classic cotton jersey t-shirt, hand painted and embroidered with silk thread. Denim for the jeans.

  • Beatrix Potter Mouse

    Salvaged leather for the tail and ears, organic cotton, mother of pearl buttons, denim and needlecord for the shirt and waistcoat. Wool for the trousers.

  • Fly Agaric Mushroom

    The Pierrot-esque costume is made from hand-loomed cotton khadi with denim spots, tiny sequins and tulle ruffs. The hat is stuffed with wool and the gills made using cotton organdie.

  • Madder/The Bride in Red

    The dress is made from denim naturally dyed with madder root and embroidered with the madder plant using wool thread. The shift a loose weave cotton.

  • 1970s Laura Ashley Dress

    The 1970s Laura Ashley inspired dress is made from Laura Ashley wild clematis cotton fabric, salvaged antique lace and denim buttons.

  • The Angler

    The waders and hat are made from coated cotton, denim and include real fishing flies. The jumper is made from wool.